England's Oldest City: Historic Charm Between Chelmsford and Ipswich

A Hidden Gem in England: Colchester

Nestled just an hour northeast of London by train, Colchester is often overlooked in favor of the city's more famous counterparts. However, this historic town offers a unique blend of ancient history, charming countryside, and cultural richness that makes it a perfect destination for travelers seeking something different.

Colchester was once England’s first capital, known as "Camulodunum" during the Roman era around 43 A.D. Today, it remains steeped in history, with remnants of its past visible throughout the city. The town boasts a network of walking trails that range from short and scenic to long and historically rich. Visitors can explore the Colchester Orbital, a 15-mile trail that circles the city, or the Wivenhoe Pub Trail, which takes you through two dozen historic pubs. Many of these trails come with audio guides, making it easy to learn about the area's rich heritage.

One of the most intriguing aspects of Colchester is its hidden Roman ruins. Despite the town's modern appearance, many of its buildings sit atop ancient sites. Strict zoning laws ensure that any renovations are accompanied by professional archaeological investigations. For example, in 2000, a Roman "circus"—a chariot racing track—was discovered and carefully excavated, offering a glimpse into the past.

For those interested in folklore, Colchester is home to several interesting stories. It claims to be the site where Humpty Dumpty supposedly fell and the birthplace of the lyrics to "Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star." These tales add a whimsical touch to the town's already rich historical tapestry.

To reach Colchester from London, the most direct option is the Greater Anglia line from Liverpool Station. Tickets start at around $17 USD (£13 GBP) one-way. Colchester is also conveniently located near Cambridge, another beautiful city known for its picturesque university.

Historic Buildings, Relics, and Museums

A visit to Colchester should begin at Colchester Castle, Europe's largest Norman keep. Built in 1076 A.D., the castle was constructed on top of a Roman temple dedicated to Emperor Claudius, symbolizing the dominance of William the Conqueror. The castle served as a fortress through centuries of conflict and now offers guided tours of its Roman vaults. Admission costs approximately $18 USD (£13.50), and visitors can enjoy a picnic in Castle Park, complete with an umbrella for unexpected rain.

Nearby, Balkerne Gate stands as the oldest surviving Roman gate in Britain, while the Hole-in-the-Wall Pub pays homage to the famous nursery rhyme character. Within the Castle Park area, Hollytrees Museum offers a glimpse into daily life in the 18th century, featuring toys, clocks, and even creepy dolls. Firstsite, known locally as the "Golden Banana," is a modern arts center hosting exhibitions, film screenings, and events. The Natural History Museum of Colchester, though temporarily closed, houses an impressive collection of taxidermy and local wildlife history.

Local Cuisine and Culture

After exploring the historical sites, visitors can enjoy a full English breakfast at the Honey + Harvey cafe, open all day. Nearby, the Queen Street Brewhouse offers Belgian beers and live music, making it a popular spot for locals and travelers alike.

For a taste of traditional British tea time, head to Trinity Street and High Street, where boutiques, bookstores, and tea rooms await. The Gorge, a Victorian-inspired tearoom, is a must-visit for high tea. A short drive from Colchester, Tiptree offers a unique experience with its strawberry fields and a small museum, though the jam factory itself is not open to the public.

Exploring Mersea Island

No visit to Colchester is complete without a trip to Mersea Island, a windswept coastal area just 10 miles south. Known for its oysters and pastel beach huts, Mersea is shaped like an oyster itself, with only about 700 year-round residents. The island is connected to the mainland via "The Strood," a causeway that floods during high tide, so drivers must be cautious.

Once on the island, visitors can stroll along the coast, kayak, or fish for crabs. Company Shed is a local favorite where you can bring your own bread and beverage to enjoy fresh oysters.

Day Trips and More

For those craving more cobblestones and cathedrals, Canterbury is a short drive away. This historic city is known for its stunning architecture and is just 94 miles from Colchester.

Whether you're drawn to Colchester's ancient history, charming countryside, or vibrant culture, there's something for everyone in this hidden gem of England. From exploring Roman ruins to savoring seafood on Mersea Island, Colchester offers a unique travel experience that is sure to leave a lasting impression.