Louise Minchin: A Tuscan Walking Holiday with My Daughters Was a Delight

A Journey Through Tuscany’s Hidden Hills

It was Scarlett who first spotted the tiny tortoise. It was no larger than her palm and perfectly hidden among the leaves scattered along the shaded path. I hadn’t noticed it at all, but she did. This ancient woodland, just below the small village of Populonia in Tuscany’s Maremma region, is part of a self-guided walking holiday I’m taking with my two daughters, Mia, 24, and Scarlett, 20.

Scarlett has an uncanny ability to spot wildlife, and I’m grateful for that. She not only found the tortoise but also helped us avoid a sunbathing viper and witness a herd of 20 wild boar rushing through an olive grove. Even from a safe distance, the musky smell of the boar overpowered the scent of herbs, leaving me with a shiver of fear.

For years, I’ve wanted to go on a walking holiday with the girls. I believe being outside and stepping beyond our comfort zones is good for the soul. This particular trip with Inntravel seemed both achievable and adventurous. Described as “easy to moderate,” “tranquil and secretive,” and with “excellent food and robust red wines,” the mention of wine might have been the final push.

After flying into Pisa, we left the tourist trail behind and took the train south to Castagneto Carducci-Donoratico. There, we met our driver, Marco, who would transport our bags between the three hotels we stayed in, allowing us to walk without heavy luggage.

Our first day of hiking gave us a taste of what was to come. We were completely alone, armed with water, snacks, and a business card from our waitress Melina, who had given it to us for emergencies. We set off early for a four-hour round-trip, navigating through the forest of chestnut, cork oak, and pine trees.

I was in charge of navigation, using a combination of detailed instructions from Inntravel, a GPX map on my phone, and the red and white markers of the Italian Alpine Club (CAI). These markers were painted on tree trunks and rocks at regular intervals, offering a sense of security.

Tuscany’s Hidden Hills felt refreshingly remote. In five days of walking, the only person we saw apart from when we reached the rugged coastline was Lorenzo, who waved from his garden and turned out to be the head waiter, maître d’, and sommelier at Gualdo del Re, the second hotel we were heading to.

Home to an award-winning vineyard and agriturismo, the area was surrounded by rows of vines. After a long, hot day of walking, we were more than ready for a cold glass of vermentino, which Lorenzo offered us.

The following day, fueled by a dinner of fresh pasta with rich ragu, we tackled the longest walk of the holiday: an 18km round trip to Campiglia Marittima. The medieval village perched on a promontory offered panoramic views of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the island of Elba.

Getting there is straightforward. EasyJet and Ryanair fly from the UK to Pisa, and from there, a 60 to 90-minute train ride takes you to Castagneto Carducci-Donoratico.

How to do it? Inntravel’s Tuscany’s Hidden Hills self-guided walking holiday starts from £1,270 per person, including six nights’ B&B, five dinners, luggage transfers, route notes, and maps. Available from September 1 to October 31, 2025.

Experience had taught us always to carry food with us, and we were glad we did when we found that the only café open had stopped serving lunch by the time we arrived. By luck rather than design, we timed our arrival in Golfo di Baratti better. We hit the sandy beach the day before the Italian summer holidays, so it was almost deserted.

As we walked towards the distinctive square tower of Torre di Baratti on the other side of the bay, where we would sleep that night, I half-heartedly suggested exploring the Etruscan ruins in the nearby archaeological park. My suggestion was overruled by the lure of an Aperol spritz (for them) and a mojito (for me) at the very cool Bagno Baratti lido, where instead of sightseeing, we collapsed on sunloungers and swapped our walking shoes for bikinis.

At the end of the holiday, Scarlett asked if I would recommend it. And the answer is yes, wholeheartedly. I wanted an adventure, and we certainly had that. The trip isn’t for the faint-hearted—some of the walking was challenging—but the landscape is breathtaking, the food and wine are outstanding, and it gave us an extraordinary opportunity to talk about important things we don’t discuss at home. I wouldn’t have missed it for the world.