Sowaka: Blending Tradition and Modernity in Kyoto

A Unique Stay in Kyoto’s Gion District

Stepping into Hotel Sowaka in Kyoto’s famous Gion district feels like entering a scene from the Disney+ series “Shōgun.” Guests leave their shoes – and any expectations of a typical hotel stay – at the front door, immersing themselves in an establishment where old-world Japanese charm meets modern boutique elegance. The building itself is 110 years old, originally serving as a tearoom for its first century. When the Sowaka opened in 2018 (with its annex in 2019), the owners preserved key historical elements, such as outdoor cooking stoves and a well, symbolizing their respect for the past.

The entrance leads to a low-ceilinged hallway made of Japanese plaster and dark varnished wood, transitioning into a lounge with tatami mats, wooden beams, and stylish contemporary furniture that lets the architecture speak for itself. Traditional shoji (rice paper) doors and original sliding windows transport guests back in time, while much of the structure and its beautiful Japanese garden of maple and zelkova trees remain untouched.

Why Stay Here?

Despite its traditional appearance, the hotel offers all the modern amenities expected from a five-star property. European-style mattresses replace futons, bathrooms feature walk-in rainfall showers, and high-speed internet is available throughout. One notable absence is a television; instead, guests are invited to relax in a meditation corner with a low chair and bell, encouraging a moment of serenity.

My deluxe suite was located in the annex, featuring traditional tatami flooring around the large bed, while the lounge area had modern hardwood floors. Sofas and a table provided a perfect spot to unwind between sightseeing adventures. Complimentary soft drinks and beers were available in the fridge, and large glass walls overlooking a private courtyard flooded the room with natural light, creating a peaceful retreat.

The bathroom was minimalist yet modern, with dark grey finishes, double sinks, and a rainfall shower. A smart toilet with features like a bidet added a touch of innovation. Instead of a regular tub, the Sowaka offers a cedar wood bath, compact but deep, offering a soothing experience with its pleasant wood scent.

Eating and Drinking

Meals at the Sowaka are served in the restaurant Gion Loka, an intimate space with a long bar made from a polished tree trunk, ideal for breakfast. The Japanese breakfast, presented as an Instagrammable bento box, featured around 30 delicacies, including fresh fish, pickled vegetables, and tofu, all bursting with umami flavors.

For dinner, the restaurant elevates traditional Japanese cuisine with creative dishes like grilled black cod with Saikyo miso, deep-fried pork cutlets, and succulent Wagyu fillet steak. If exploring beyond the hotel, Pontocho Alley is a must-visit. This car-free thoroughfare near the river is lined with colorful paper lanterns and traditional buildings housing restaurants and bars.

At Sushi Kizaemon, we enjoyed melt-in-the-mouth smoked eel, prawn, and salmon sushi after a short wait. Nearby, Kiraku offered a unique dining experience, where guests could fry okonomiyaki pancakes on a red-hot griddle right at their table.

What to Do in Kyoto

Kyoto, Japan’s ancient capital, was spared Allied bombing during World War II, preserving its cultural landmarks. Unlike Tokyo’s glass-and-steel neighborhoods, Kyoto’s historic areas, especially Gion, feature streets lined with low-rise wooden machiya houses, once home to artisans and merchants. The district is also known for its geisha culture, with many women in traditional attire and tourists in rented outfits visible throughout the area.

Exploring the Higashiyama district reveals charming streets filled with cafes, restaurants, and shops selling pottery, spices, and jewelry. A short train ride takes visitors to Fushimi Inari Shrine, a 1,300-year-old site famous for its thousands of vermilion torii gates. Walking through the wooded forest to the summit of Mount Inari is a unique experience, though shorter routes are available.

Other highlights include the Yasaka Pagoda (Hokan-ji Temple), a five-story wooden temple in the Higashiyama district, and the Yasaka Shrine in Gion, which comes alive at night with strings of bright lanterns. These sites offer a glimpse into Kyoto’s rich history and cultural heritage.

The Verdict

Hotel Sowaka offers a stylish blend of old and new Japan. With just 23 rooms, plus a cozy lounge, tea room, and restaurant, this boutique hotel provides a refined alternative to larger hotel chains. Its thoughtful design, attention to detail, and commitment to preserving history make it a standout choice for travelers seeking an authentic Kyoto experience.