WWC25 – A British Bacchus by Emilie Aspeling

The Unique Identity of Bacchus in English Wine

Emilie Aspeling, a former sommelier who began her career in Michelin-starred dining rooms and wine bars in the South of England, has transitioned to Paris where she now works in wine education at Kedge Wine School. She is currently pursuing her WSET Diploma. In this article, Emilie explores the distinctive qualities of the Bacchus grape, which is gaining recognition as one of the most unique varieties being cultivated in England.

A Grape with a Rich Heritage

Bacchus is often associated with the English countryside, yet it originates from Germany. This might seem surprising, but the grape's presence in the UK is far more significant than in its country of origin. According to Wine GB data, Bacchus ranks as the fourth most planted grape variety in the UK, following the traditional Champagne trio of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Meunier. Despite its growing popularity, many outside the wine industry remain unfamiliar with it.

The name Bacchus comes from the Roman god of wine, and the grape's history is steeped in mythology. According to legend, Bacchus was the son of Semele, a mortal woman who perished when Jupiter revealed his divine form to her. This tale mirrors the idea of "mind-blowing" experiences, much like the lively Roman festivals known as Bacchanalia, where wine flowed freely, music filled the air, and inhibitions were lifted—similar to the carefree spirit of a Bank Holiday weekend in the UK.

A Taste of England

For Emilie, drinking Bacchus evokes vivid memories of the English countryside. It reminds her of the fresh-cut grass before village fêtes, blackberry picking in early autumn, and the tartness of green apples. The sensory experience of Bacchus brings back images of fishing a football out of a nettle-filled ditch and the scent of honeysuckle on summer nights. These childhood memories are rekindled with each sip, creating a nostalgic connection to the land.

While English sparkling wines are beginning to receive well-deserved attention, still wines often go unnoticed. Many critics dismiss them as inferior to their sparkling counterparts. However, Bacchus offers something unique that cannot be found elsewhere. Unlike traditional method sparkling wines, which can be produced in various regions around the world, Bacchus provides a distinct freshness, herbal character, and a strong sense of terroir.

A Reflection of the Environment

When grown in Germany, Bacchus can be fruity and full-bodied, sometimes resembling Muscat with its floral notes. But when planted in regions like Sussex, Kent, and Surrey, it takes on an unmistakably English character. Notes of elderflower, crisp apple, nettle, gooseberry, and citrus define its profile. Each glass of Bacchus tells a story of pub gardens, country lanes, and beach barbecues, offering a sensory journey through the English landscape.

A Grape That Reflects the British Spirit

The thin and sensitive skin of Bacchus grapes makes them vulnerable to sunburn, a trait that parallels the way Britons react to the sun. On a hot summer day, beachgoers can display a range of skin tones, from pale to sun-kissed. This shared vulnerability reinforces the idea that Bacchus is not just a grape but a symbol of the British identity.

Next time you find yourself enjoying a long, hot summer evening, consider trying Bacchus. It may just transport you on a gustative trip down memory lane, reminding you of the beauty and uniqueness of the English countryside. Whether you're sipping it in a pub garden or by the seaside, Bacchus offers a taste of home that is both refreshing and deeply rooted in tradition.